How to tell if you have them, and why it matters more than it sounds.
If your house was built before about 1919, the walls are probably lime, and they were designed to let moisture pass through and dry out again.
Gypsum plaster and modern vinyl paints do the opposite: they hold moisture. Patch a lime wall with gypsum and the water that used to leave through the plaster now goes around it instead, and reappears somewhere else as a damp patch, blown plaster or a tide mark.
This is why so many period houses develop damp shortly after being replastered. Nothing started leaking. The wall simply lost its way of drying out.
In an older house, get the plaster question answered before anyone injects anything. Damp in a solid-walled property is very often a breathability problem rather than rising damp, and the fix is different and usually cheaper.
No tools needed for the first four. Do them somewhere hidden — behind a radiator, inside a cupboard, low down behind furniture.
Set lime plaster on a wall is not hazardous. It is a mineral surface, and living with it is exactly as safe as living with any other plaster.
Wet lime is caustic while it is being mixed and applied, which is a matter for whoever is doing the work: eye protection, gloves and a mask against the dust. It is not a reason to avoid the material.
The real caution in an older house is not the lime. It is what may have been put over it since. Textured coatings and some plaster and board products from the middle of the last century until 1999 can contain asbestos, and the original lime beneath them does not.
So the rule is about disturbance rather than about lime: do not sand, drill, scrape or break out any unidentified coating in a house of that age. If there is textured or artex-style covering on the wall or ceiling, have it tested before anyone touches it. Testing is inexpensive and settles it.
Lime plaster itself: no asbestos, not hazardous in place.
Unknown textured coatings in a pre-2000 house: get them tested before disturbing them.
Any plaster at all: wear a mask when you sand it. Fine dust is fine dust.
Lime patches go into lime walls. A gypsum patch is harder than what surrounds it and it cracks around the edges as the wall moves, as well as blocking the moisture.
Limewash, silicate or a mineral emulsion. Vinyl and most modern washable emulsions seal the surface, which is the same mistake as gypsum in a thinner layer.
Fine hairline cracking is what lime does. It is flexible by design and it moves with the building rather than resisting it. Filling every one with a rigid filler makes it worse.
A wall that is wet for a reason will be wet under a new finish too. Find the reason first — ground levels, a blocked gutter, a failed pointing joint, a bridged cavity — then plaster.
Marmorino, Tadelakt and limewash are lime plasters. In a period house they are both the historically correct material and a finish worth looking at, which is a rare combination.
Send a photograph of a broken edge or a hidden corner and we will tell you what we think it is. We work on listed and period buildings and we will say honestly when a job wants a heritage specialist rather than us.
More on limewash, Tadelakt and Venetian plaster walls.
If you need any help, feel free to get in touch. We are happy to answer anything about finishes, timings or price.
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